Pond Supplies for a variety of Ponds
including Fish Pond, Koi Pond, Water Garden Pond, Water Garden, Lakes & Fisheries, Aquaculture uses and more!
1000s of Pond Supplies to choose from all at
PondSolutions.com - America's Leading Pond Supplier!
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Pond
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At PondSolutions.com® we have 1000s of Pond Supplies and complete Pond Kits for Garden Pond, Fish Pond, Koi Pond, Water Garden and Lakes! To shop from our online catalog of pond supplies simply choose from the list of pond supplies in the right hand column.New to ponds and don't know where to start? Check out our online course for information on building a pond and how to properly take care of it. We also have 100s of answers to frequently asked pond questions We cover all sorts of questions like how to reduce algae, how to eradicate pond weeds, questions about water chemistry, fish stocking information and so much more. Check out our comprehensive pond, water garden and pond fish FAQ section here. Trying to combat algae and pond weeds this season? Read our comprehensive information about how to get rid of the algae and pond weeds in your pond, water garden or lake! We also have several, helpful, pond tips that'll be sure to help you with your pond and water garden needs! If you're new to ponds and want to see some nice pond photos, check out some of our customer's pond photos from small to large size ponds!
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Pond supply orders usually ship within 24 - 48 hours!
We have 1000s of Pond Supplies to choose from! Choose from the Pond Supply categories below! Pond Supplies: Aerators
Compost Tumbler
Fire
Pits
Hammocks
Landscape
Boulders
Patio Supplies
Pond Deicer Pond-less
Water Features
Preformed
Waterfalls
Spillways
Three Phase
Inverter Panels
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Pond VacuumClean out your pond this spring with our industrial size pond vacuum!! This pond vacuum has a whopping 6.5 HP motor with a 15 gallon stainless tank! This large industrial vacuum is ideal for large pond owners and pond maintenance companies where high volume use is needed. The large suction hose helps remove oversized debris like algae and decaying leaves.
A "must have" for large pond owners and pond maintenance companies! Also makes a great rental item for pond stores and retailers. Check it out here! |
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Pond AeratorDid you know that using a pond aerator during the summer is essential to have overall, good pond health? By having the correct size and type of pond aerator, your pond will reap the benefits of being oxygenated from the bottom of the pond all the way up to the top! This type of aeration can be achieved by using one of our diffused pond aerators. A pond aerator is also an absolutely great idea to use during the cold winter months, too for it can allow the necessary oxygen to your valuable fish in the pond besides providing an exit/entrance hole in the top of the pond to prevent it from freezing. Pond aerators can be used year-round, can be very economical to run and can last for many years. Check them out here.
Be sure to check out the information on our pond aerator
page describing different types of aerators (fountain aerators, diffused
aerators and high volume surface aerators) to see how they differ and what
size is best for your pond or lake. If you need assistance, we're
always happy to help. |
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Pond Net Protect your valuable fish from unwanted predators such as the blue heron, cats or raccoons. Available in different sizes and thickness, check out our pond nets here. It's always a good idea to put a pond net over your pond throughout the year so a heron, cat or other unwanted predator doesn't snatch them! We also have pond nets to skim off unwanted duckweed and filamentous algae that float on top of large ponds in addition to seine nets that are used to seine ponds (fancy term to remove a lot of fish in one large swoop) full of fish. Check them out here. |
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Pond BacteriaDid you know that when you add beneficial bacteria to your pond you're actually adding a microbial 'army' to clean up your pond? It's true! Day and night the microbes multiply in numbers and work hard at cleaning your pond. The bacterial microbes eat the fallen leaves, sludge, silt, muck, etc. (all the nasty stuff in your pond that causes high algae blooms and awful smelling water). By adding a good beneficial bacteria product to your pond regularly, you'll be doing your best to keep your pond healthy and enjoyable. For small, backyard ponds less than 50' x 50' in size) we recommend using our Microbe Lift beneficial bacteria product. (Check out the Microbe Lift Autumn Prep for spring, autumn and winter use, too.) For larger ponds and lakes up to several acres in size, we recommend you use our PlanktoniX®. Check them out here. Remember, pond bacteria multiplies more abundantly during the warm summer months so if you have a problem with your pond and have a lot of sludge, then be sure to get on a regular treatment program for your pond to decompose the sludge (and hence, clear your pond and make it healthier). We've also have great, helpful advice on the following page regarding pond maintenance issues. It's definitely worth the read! |
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PondSolutions.com® Deluxe Pond Kits Definitely the best way to go to make a pond! These deluxe pond kits eliminates the time, effort and guesswork at creating a pond! They come complete with everything you need to create a beautiful looking pond and come in a variety of sizes. Check out our pond kits. From as small as 6' x 6' ponds all the way up to 40' x 40' ponds! |
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Answers to the Infamous Questions... HOW DO I CLEAR MY POND OF ALGAE?First of all, there's primarily 2 types of algae that plagues most people's ornamental ponds; string algae and the notorious plankton algae that makes your pond water green like a "lovely" bowl of split pea soup (yuck). Both types of algae grow by somewhat different methods, so I will explain each one of them to you individually. String algae is pretty simple. It usually grows along the bottom or edges of your pond where there isn't a lot of water circulation. It looks like a bunch of green hair and looks pretty awful, too. To kill the string algae in your pond you need to remove the water from your pond or waterfall (ideal time to do that is during spring cleaning) and liberally sprinkle Kosher Salt on it ( it must be Kosher Salt or non-iodized salt and NOT table salt). Let it sit for at least 3 days and then brush off and rinse and clean the pond thoroughly. There CANNOT be any fish in the pond during this time, so the choice is yours and if you are set up to remove your fish and if it's worth the hassle. You can also use our Green Clean to kill the string algae without emptying the pond. You can find out about it here. Plankton, our lovely "pea soup" algae is probably the most common type of algae in ponds and lakes. It's the stuff that makes the water look green and causes you not to be able to see your wonderful fish. The best way to explain how to get rid of planktonic algae is to first understand what causes it to grow. Plankton requires primarily 2 things to grow: sunlight and nutrition. The sunlight obviously comes from the sun and the nutrition comes from bi-products from fish waste, dead and decaying leaves, decomposed fish food (make sure you don't over feed your fish) decaying aquatic plants and weeds, and nearby chemicals and fertilizers that filter into the pond (particularly if your pond sits in a lower part of your yard). Most ponds I've seen have at least some, if not all of the above nutrients in their pond (and green water, too!). The way to get rid of or reduce the amount of algae in your pond is by reducing the amount of sunlight and nutrients available to the algae. Sunlight can be reduced by providing shade to your pond either above or by adding aquatic plants such as water lilies or other floating plants including water hyacinths. The leaves of these plants help to cover the surface area of your pond and also make the pond look pretty. You can also use an aquatic "sun blocker" such as Aqua Shade for a variety of backyard ponds including koi ponds, fish ponds, all types of water gardens and lakes. Nutrients on the other hand, can be reduced in a couple of different ways. To reduce the nutrients in your pond which is causing your algae to thrive, you first need to clean your pond. Get rid of any dead and decaying leaves on the bottom or along the sides of the pond. Once you have that done, get a skimmer so you can have leaves and debris that may blow into your pond, sucked up before they ever settle and start to decompose. If you don't want to get a skimmer, get a net (you also can keep out predators such as raccoons, blue herons, cats, etc. with a net) or make it a practice to clean the debris off the pond every day or so. If you need help at getting the leaves out of the bottom of your pond, get a pond vacuum that will help remove them. The next way to get rid of the nutrients in your pond is by
adding beneficial bacteria to your pond. You see, there are 2 types of
bacteria; the "bad" kind of bacteria and the good kind!
Bad types of bacteria can cause a lot of problems to your fish's health and
can be pretty involved to explain.
To keep it simple, these bad
types of bacteria can eat away at their skin, their gills, and cause them to be sick
and die. Needless to say, you don't want the "bad" type of bacteria.
The good, or "beneficial" bacteria is a type of bacteria that is required to not
only break down toxic ammonia from fish wastes into harmless nitrates (referred to as the
Nitrogen Cycle - which is something you want in your pond) but they also consume the same nutrients as algae does!
So, when
you add more beneficial bacteria, you starve out the algae, thus resulting in a clearer
pond! Beneficial bacteria also breaks down sludge build up,
"muck" on the bottom of koi ponds
and fish ponds and much more. It is absolutely vital to
having any
healthy pond. So what do you need to do to establish some beneficial bacteria in
your pond? Provide them a place to grow such as a biological filter, rocks, plants, and filter
media. Establishing a nice colony of beneficial bacteria can take 3-8 weeks but you
can actually get a "jump start" on things by adding some beneficial bacteria to
you pond. The best product we've used is an all-natural product called Microbe Lift.
It works great (we use it on our own small ponds
and water gardens) and it can be used throughout the
season as a good maintenance plan to keep your pond clear. You can find out more
about it here.
We also recommend our
PlanktoniX ™
beneficial for large fish ponds
over 50' x 50' in size all the way up to lakes several
acres in size! I do have to mention some other products that are out on the market (and yes, even on our website) that will "destroy" algae, but these products will only work for a short time. They are a temporary solution. How they are supposed to work is by killing the algae and then the dead algae is supposed to be filtered through your filter. What essentially happens is that the dead algae builds up on the bottom of the pond and creates an organic "compost pile". This provides tons of nutrients within the pond and causes more algae to bloom in a couple of weeks. People who continually use these products are actually making the algae situation worse. You're continually providing more and more food the very algae that you're trying to get rid of! It creates a vicious cycle and you need to stop the cycle. By continually adding these chemicals & algaecides to your pond, you're changing the pond's chemistry and ecological system. You need to add beneficial bacteria to the pond to reduce the nutrients available to the algae. This will eventually starve out the algae and stop the cycle and result in a clearer, healthier pond. Now, since I have your attention :o), I'd like to address Spring Care (can be applied for Fall Care too) for your pond and all the many wonderful questions we answer about Spring Cleaning... Spring Cleaning....oh how wonderful it is! We, who hibernate during the winter are all anxious to start cleaning out our pond once the weather turns warm and we're disgusted when the water is so darn green that you can't see your fish or anything else. Sometimes there's a "fishy" or nasty smell, too. Well, put on your gloves and let's get to work! The first thing you can do to clean your pond is get out the nasty debris that fell in it during the fall and winter. All the mucky leaves and things you don't even recognize! :o( Naturally if you had a skimmer or a net, you wouldn't have all this debris in there, but you can't say I didn't tell you so! :o) It's best to empty the pond and clean it good with plain o'l tap water. ( You can put your fish in a container with a small aerator while cleaning.) Be sure to get out the leaves and muck that seemed to have it's way to your pond. If you can't clean it out all the way (the more you clean it out the better off the pond will be) do at least a 50% water change. This gets rid of some of the nutrients and any other junk that's in your pond. Stir things up a bit while you're emptying it to get out as much debris as you can. Be sure that your pump will handle the muck and debris and check often for the pump getting clogged up. If you decide to do the partial water change you won't necessarily need to take your fish out to do this, but if you can, that would be great so you can see how your fish have survived and if they have any wounds or anchor worm or anything else that need to be treated. If you really need to, you can do another partial water change in another week. Be sure to run the tap water through some Super Activated Filter Carbon which neutralizes the toxic chlorine and chloramine out of the tap water. You can also add Ammo Lock 2 instead which will neutralize the chlorine and chloramine in the tap water. If you have a bad case of string algae, you can clean the entire pond as I described above and then "start over" with filling your pond. One thing I want to mention is that EVERY pond in the Spring has a big algae bloom. This is only natural and I know that it is so discouraging and disgusting to most of you. After a long Winter we're so eager to see our fish and we can't because the water is like pea soup! Part of this is due to the change in temperature outside. This happens because the beneficial bacteria hasn't started to grow yet and the pond is FULL of nutrients from dead, decaying leaves and debris from the winter. Now the algae has the upper hand and is continuing to thrive. What you need to do is add some of the Microbe Lift/Autumn Prep (for small backyard ponds, water gardens, koi ponds and any pond less than 50' x 50' in size) and be PATIENT. Add your aerator, turn your pump and waterfall on or whatever water feature you have and after 2-3 days add the Microbe Lift. Remember, what you're doing is creating an 'ecological system' and this isn't a 'quick fix'. Whatever you do, don't get discouraged and periodically empty part of your pond. What you're doing each time you add tap water to your pond is KILLING THE BENEFICIAL BACTERIA. That is why you just have to leave it alone. Get your pump and filter going. Have you aerator on and be patient. Time and Microbe Lift (for small backyard ponds, koi ponds and water gardens) will take care of it. You will definitely see improvements within 2-3 weeks and continue to see improvements thereafter. Use the Microbe Lift too, as a maintenance to reduce the algae and keep your pond clearer. (Use the PlanktoniX for large fish ponds and lakes over 50' x 50' in size.) One other thing that I would like to mention (since we are frequently asked this) is "what can I do about the algae in shallow areas of my pond?". Well, that one is a toughy and nothing is really going to help it much besides trying to increase the circulation to those areas. You see, the water in the shallow areas (around 6" or so) gets really warm and since there is less circulation because it is so shallow, well, that only causes more algae to grow. This is a different kind of algae and is going to pretty much cling to the rocks or anything else you have there. I guess the best thing to "fix" this is to create your pond so it doesn't have a real shallow edge in order to avoid this. If it's not avoidable, then trying to increase the circulation is the next best thing. Speaking of circulation, I will remind you that in order to have proper circulation in your pond, you want your pump to pump at least 1/2 the total volume of your pond every hour and have a filter that will filter the total volume of your pond at least every 3-4 hours. If you have your pond in full sun, then opt for a larger filter. The filtration system for your pond is probably the most important part of your pond. Always go with a larger filter than what is 'recommended'. A huge portion of people new to ponds and water gardens over-populate their pond with too many fish which put more demands on the filtration system and then have all kinds of problems with green water, etc. Be smart and put your money and thought into the filtration system and you'll be glad you did. Well, there you have it; some suggestions at maintaining a healthy, clearer and more enjoyable pond. I hope this information helps you! Don't forget we have a Ponds Online Course that explains how to create a pond, how to determine your pump and filter sizes and much more. Take a look at it. We also have free information throughout out site about fish care, a safe amount of fish you can have in your pond and how to properly transfer fish to your pond. I'm sure you will find this information invaluable. For those of you who have very large ponds and lakes, please check out our information for controlling algae and pond weeds in lakes (the way to treat ponds and lakes over 50' x 50' in size is different than the treatment for small backyard ponds and water gardens since obviously the volume of water and size of area are substantially different.) We at PondSolutions.com are happy to help you. Let us know how we can be of service. |
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